Tuesday, May 27--

      "Is it hard to steer," asked Duke.

      "Uhh, no." But, compared to what I wondered. I have no source of comparison, nor did Duke have sample tillers in his outboard shop: THIS TILLER STEERS HARD, another: THIS TILLER'S EASY, to swing back and forth to get a feel for the difference and thereby assign a degree of difficulty to my own boat's steering effort. It's just the way it is and my arm's aching from curving upriver gets that way from steering a boat.

      "Oh. They already drilled the bolt holes, but the motor should be three-quarters of an inch higher."

      I'd drilled the holes last July; the salesman said to as a prudent move to keep the motor off the bottom of the lake.

      Duke squinted his eyes at the lower end of the motor. "You've got a 13-pitch prop. With this heavy boat you'd get a helluva lot better performance with an 11, so the engine can rev its maximum horsepower through higher RPMs."

      My emotional sphincter muscles relaxed. Slackened further than they had an hour earlier when I'd stopped out at Duke's to purchase a bottle of OMC Carbon-Kleen, or something like that.

      "Oh, yeah," he said and picked up a lone dusty bottle lying on its side in a cardboard box on the floor. As he began to write up the $7.95 sale I put my ploy to work and asked, "I've had this problem with my Johnson sneezing, coughing and killing. It's getting worse. Do you think this will solve the problem?"

      He eyed me as one does an idiot who's farted in court.

      "You don't need that." He took it back, paused, then said "here. You can have it," and gave it back.

      I didn't want it either, and pushed it back across the counter.

      "Your motor needs a linkage adjustment."

      "Can you show me how to do it?" I asked, knowing full well from an Internet search earlier this morning that symptoms like mine were caused by too lean a mixture and I wanted him to show me the needle valve.

      He hesitated. "I really can't explain how to do it yourself, especially without the motor here to show you."

      "How much will it cost and when can you do it?"

      "It takes about a half-hour. Twenty-five dollars. Bring the motor on the boat and I'll get to it yet this morning."

      I drove home to get the boat, exhilarated that I was going to be rescued from the motor's chronic bad behavior. And, at the hands of someone who seemed to know exactly what tweaking to do.

      Duke's Outboards is a small old-timey automobile repair garage converted to boat and motor service years ago. It sits, with backwater access to the Wisconsin River flowage, on a curve of a dead-end road five miles from town. It is not the place where social climbers shop for expansive expensive umpteen-hundreds horsepower engines or military-grade cruisers. And it is a serendipitous discovery for me who appreciates competence and an sensibility of "do it right is enough, more is too much".

      I brought the boat, with motor attached, within the hour. That's when Duke told me about the too-low motor, the hard steering and introduced the subject of my improper prop geometry. I gave him permission to replace the prop in addition to performing the fixative sneeze adjustment.

      He said to call him at 11:30 and I drove away ninety-percent confident, ten-percent dubious, wondering if this man was trustworthy or just another smooth salesman.

11:30-

      "Is the tune-up and propeller replacement on the Johnson ready?" I asked the phone.

      "Let me see."

      Papers rustled beside his receiver. A minute later he picked up the phone and asked, "What was that name? Johnson?"

      "I didn't give you my name, but it was the idle adjustment and new prop you were going to take care of this morning."

      "Oh. Oh, I'm sorry. Yeah, that's all ready."

      I entered the shop beneath half of a wooden rowboat with an antique motor on its transom, hung over the outside of the door. Inside, ancient outboard motors line each side of the small room. Some are mounted high, between old outboard posters. Old motors--Mercurys from the fifties and Evinrudes from the forties and enormous bulky old motors on display with long water pipe tillers and sparkplugs sticking out before the days of cowlings hid all the mechanisms. Each model had a small sign detailing the make, year of manufacture, horsepower, and original retail price.

      I gawked alone for a few minutes then Duke came over from the house and startled inside the door to see someone there.

      "I put the new prop on. It should make a helluva big difference."

      As he wrote up the receipt I asked, "and the idling problem was fixed too?"

      "I pushed it into the lake and idled it for a few minutes. It didn't cough once."

      I shriveled the pained look customers do when a chronically troubled car won't act up for the mechanic.

      "But, I adjusted it before trying it out."

      He wrote out the bill and I studied a snapshot of a man and small child under-way on a lake in a small racing boat. Realization dawned bright and complete that it was he I'd seen in that same boat upriver last summer, followed by a woman and child in a 1950s runabout with a period-correct outboard.

      "Have I seen you in this pumpkin seed out on the river?"

      "Yes. But it's a tri-hull hydroplane. I've got four of them out back. C'mon I'll show you." (Not a hard proposal to get a passionate man to show off his reserve.)

      He led me out the back door down to the water. Two of the boats were ramped on skids. "Those are the other two I'm restoring, under that tarp"

      I drooled and murmured impressionable rapture as we perused the fleet. Duke squatted at the front of one on the ramp, "see, if you look underneath you'll see the narrow outsides of the undersides have small runners along the outsides. That's a tri-hull. Once it's planing the boat skims on those two points and along the rear."

      We headed for my boat in the lot, passing a pair of small aluminum speedboats. He said, "This is the one my wife likes best. The other, the white one, was just restored."

      Impossibly small, short and narrow, each had blue Evinrudes. "They are great fun, so different than the big new boats."

      We commiserated on that cultural big-business tendency, then arrived at my boat.

      "Are you going out soon?" he asked.

      "Right now," I replied.

      "Bring it right back if you don't see a big difference in performance and I'll refund your money for the prop."

      A friend for life.

      Elmer was just preparing to launch a boat different from his birthday gift boat of two years ago. I'd only seen him in the hardware all last year and wondered what was up.

      "Hey Elmer," I said, "That's a boat I haven't seen before," getting out to see.

      "Yeah, I just got it. I'll wait. You go ahead and put in."

      "Let me help. What happened to your birthday boat?"

      "It was too damn heavy. Took three men and a boy just to pull it back onto the trailer."

      He unhooked a strap and a rope, got in the truck, while I held the rope and followed it down. Off it floated, high and lightly proper for one man to control with a twenty-five horse Mercury on the back end and electric trolling motor furled on the front. He walked onto the dock and stepped in as I held fast. Then he started the motor and backed slowly out, a sweet gentle man with a new dreamboat.

      We idled out of the landing channel. Then I cracked the throttle open. EZ staggered and I was pressed deeply into my seat. We hit top speed and I gassed-back to half throttle. EZ lunged forward at the sudden slowing and almost went over the bow.

      My God! A helluva difference in performance, as though the propeller blades have been hard-slotted into gear drives rather than patient fluid water. The engine indeed runs revs to a higher whine; top speed is not appreciably greater, but who cares? The machinery is singing the song it was intended to sing. No longer a Daffy Duck throttling himself with two hands trying to produce Figaro. Where has Duke been all my boating life!? A man who knows what his customers need when they don't know no different, or quit trying to tell him what they should have.

      I am guilty of it. Part pride, some cynicism, at being sold unneeded baubles by salesmen who knew nothing but exceeding last month's profits. Hard to find genuine experts who know what they're doing, are deeply immersed in their work, and derive great satisfaction when things are done right.

3:55 p.m.-

      I am pulled up on glitter beach after two hours anchored in SSC. EZ is lying on shore on a new layer of silty sand surrounded by sparse fresh tufts of grass. A majestic day. Temperature mid-70s, trees half-leafed out, few bugs but for the occasional gnat. And, there is enough shade to escape the too-hot-to-stay-still-in-it sun. Just like that. The months and days and minutes and hours of dreadful shut-up indoors is done and we can sit here listening to a cricket singing across the river in the grasses and trees limy green.

      If human ears could hear chlorophyll being produced the hum would be heard on the moon. Infinite trillions of chemical transactions taking place each second in a single large oak. It's a mind-boggling conjecture, so silent, just happening. Atoms and molecular fusion's manufacturing new substantiality's. It's a good thing we can't hear it. Seeing daily change is enough.

      The river is back inside its banks; the erosion trench scoured along Grand Sandbanks is two feet above water.

      A bicycle is a friendly exercise, especially when it has been serviced by a young man who takes one look at its badly chewed gear cluster and dripping oily chain (I thought it was the responsible thing to do) and threatens to have me arrested, especially for riding on too tight and too dry rear bearings. Another example of relativity with nothing to compare it.

      I'd brought it in because the crackling and crunching sounds grinding around my feet was annoying, maybe there's something somebody could do. I apologized and he hung up the phone to the cops.

      He took my bike in the back and "whisshed" at parts with an air hose for a while, removed the old chain and the gear cluster and soaked everything in some technological miracle paraffin stew. Installed a new chain, measured and sang mountain biking songs. He worked his magic, even stayed a half hour after closing, loosening and tightening and muttering disgrace about me under his breath, then told me to wait while he went out for a test ride, leaving me in silence with bike accessories and an unattended cash register.

      He came back in five minutes and pronounced that it peddled quietly and shifted much smoother than ever. I paid him fifty-two dollars and went away holding my breath.

      A silent ride, he was right. Done right because he too knew exactly what needed fixing and did nothing more than it needed.

      Now riding sixteen miles is actually fun, not like it was riding three miles to school while the car was being re-timed. Maybe now, since exercise is this pleasurable a daily one-hour ride will finally take off twenty pounds. A lovely win-win.

      The time is now nearly 5:00. The day is still lovely and warm, and birds I don't miss being absent during winter are trilling, fighting over mates.